Showing posts with label Montmartre. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Montmartre. Show all posts

Friday, 23 August 2013

Madama Nao


Cara Nao,

I am typing from Paris. The happy couple on the front of your vintage postcard are picture perfect in their embrace. With the black and white photo and hand coloured turquoise for her dress and her fuchsia pink lips ready to be kissed. I rarely speak of my romantic life to many as it hurts too much. I think you would understand... I came here to find a certain man which I have travelled here to see. Be it 20,000km away or 20 minutes on foot is too far. I feel like when I am here I wait. I get so tired of sleeping alone and for someone to wake up next to in an embrace. To go down to the corner to bring back that Parisian delight a pain au chocolat and make me a cup of coffee. It is not as cold as you would think. L’amour est dur toujours. I am not sure if I have the courage to pack up and make the move to Melbourne. I am in a café called de la Poste. I love the name. No one bothers me in Montmartre when I type outside au terrasse but towards Barbes - Château Rouge I get looks, complaints from other customers, people laugh and point, cars and motorcycles beeping and tooting their horns at me, god damn! Incroyable! However amongst the bobos of Montmartre I do not lift an eyebrow. I have to start to accept I behave like one of them the bourgeoise bohemian. I dream of la vie bohème like they do which no longer exists, those days are long gone. Amy Whinehouse is playing in the background of the café. A Parisian punk tries to talk politics with me over her espresso while we politely light each other cigarettes how fitting rattling on about the end of days and anarchist hopes of days to come. I think what time does to my soul and how distance cripples my spirit.
  

= fay =

Saturday, 8 June 2013

La Chausse (The Hunt)



Cara Giovanni!

Comme-va? I think your card is fitting your postcard has a photographed scene from 'La Chausse', The Hunt, a French loved pastime and institution. We all run after someone on the chase at sometime and hold on to them captive in our embrace but as all things it ends.

I look out over the rooftops of Montmartre from the 6th floor apartment the chimneys in terracotta the arrow shaped antennas and tin and copper roofs, balconies with flowers overhanging with geraniums spilling. The smell of fresh bread from the boulangerie that bakes every half hour on the corner and the hinted scents of Cigarillos wafting up here, high up in rarefied air of the apartment. The muted mutter of cars turning the block ten times to find a park. Men whistling as they go on their merry way, a claxon, a moto rumbles, the ring of a bicycle bell. In here it is just the sound of me tapping of the keys on the typewriter and the buzz of the jazz radio. I have no country no homeland just my thoughts my typewriter and the need for a quiet place to tap the keys.

I found my man alone in Paris with all of Europe’s problems and challenges weighing him down. My heart grows heavy, the hour sounds and the bells from the Sacré Cœur chime. We were together when the siren on the 1st Wednesday of the month rang out all over Paris, France and Europe a reminder of WWII this place weighed down heavy by the past. I feel high up in this apartment like I can see the clouds in profile. I guess I should be without a care while I am here.

Driss is preparing Moules Marinier with a Muscatel wine and les huites (oysters) that are unopened, fat with the oily jewels hidden within and a big wheel of brie for dessert. If we were not tied to anything lassoed down by our obligations and responsibilities where would we all be? What would we all really do and make with our lives? However now we face problems like La Crise in the age of austerity.

... Fayroze ...

Tuesday, 4 June 2013

My Siren Song

Cara Andréa,

I am lost at sea here! No shipwrecked! A refugee! I lost my passport! PUTAIN!

I dream of the Indian summer in Firenze, my café doppio made for me by a real paysano, served to me in a white ceramic coffee cup. Not set adrift here in an apartment with a view of the Eifel Tower. However the apartment is comfortable but there are no tea cups so I took my coffee in a Bonne Maman jam jar this morning. When will I leave? Do I want to leave this place? I am lolling here entranced in the limbo of no-man’s-land. Presently I have no country, no papers no proof of my identity, as if I were a clandestine so for now I call this home.

Here in this city there are apartment buildings that have ornate bare-chested bronze and stone statues of beautiful larger than life size women, avec le monde au balcon. Sirens with their chiselled cloth swirling around them, engulfing the balconies as if they were holding up the building somehow like Atlas himself, the Titan. I sense them as if they watch over me as I pass by, as though these beauties were the sirens that hang like the figure head on the prow of ships in this land locked beige wilderness. They peer at me from across the street at this dizzying height of the 7th floor. The sirens navigating this stone man-built terrain and let the buildings that they cling to rest anchored in this safe harbour. They give their blessings not from the Roman god of the sea Neptune but from Pluto, the god of earth or is it better put Hades, my unknown hell. Singing their siren song to me perhaps in words that I cannot hear a silent choir, I understand this as I cannot sing aloud so when I write it is me singing aloud on the page, this is my songbook, my silent chorus.

There is the most adored ornate old fashioned mirrored, wire and timber elevator to let me down from my perch high up here. It is cold here in Paris and I watched the hail bounce off the old lightening rod yesterday. It glows at night as if it were my lighthouse that has guided me to here, where I have set anchor for now... Oh memory bliss. I have suffered all the nightmares of being left destitute to be close to this man un Arabe en plus! So I stay no longer enamoured...
...with this city and with him, I am no longer certain. I slept alone last night. A man told me he would not leave me alone, not even for a second; he would ‘donnez les yeux,’ in effect give his eyes for a woman like me. Putain! Bientôt, je vais chercher une cigarette. However he is all things to me we are both creatures of the wind. The difference being that I blow towards him and he is set free, wild like the winds in between the sails of a ship. Or is all that billows and blows the indifferent winds of fate.
Perhaps I am just blowing smoke from French cigarettes that seem so very strong. I take a long deep draw. I sip my Bonne Maman coffee and I look out over the grey metal rooftops, dormer windows and endless terracotta chimneys that stretch out seemingly forever to form a distinctly Parisian skyline.

I think and wonder about these old vertical cities of people who dream on top of one another. In these austere times what happens to all those dreams, those hopes and prayers. Do they go unanswered? Left to float into the ether like the smoke from the stem of my cigarette, left to gather like the grey storm clouds above and fall back down onto the tin roofs as rain, the sky mourning with them solemnly.

It is Friday so I lit some candles as if it were Shabbat. The candles glow with the same coloured light as the old girl. I had a thought that she is one big candlestick for the people of this city and for me, it lights up a path in the sky, to let me navigate my way back home, my own land locked Robins & Crusoe tale. I want to live in a landscape, a wild manmade terrain where my stalwart heart is set free not left to lament over it as if love had turned cold like the weather on a winter's day.

It is raining now and the old lady is cloaked in heavy fog. I would prefer to think she is hidden behind a cloud or a haze of my cigarette smoke. It is heady, the smell of the Les Gauloises. When I exhale as I walk in the street it is my smokescreen, as I sit at cafés it is my camouflage.  As though when I breathe smoke there is a fire inside me that comes out when I exhale that no rain, no pompier (fireman) could put out. I am the keeper of my own flame it smoulders and burns inside me. The candles which I lit are burning low so I put on the radio, TSF Jazz and they burn higher - brighter.

The sun shows its elusive face for the first time today heureusement. I look out over the square and I think to Jacques Prévert who had his parc Montsouris and I have the Square de Carpeaux. As I look down on the heads of the tall proud slender poplar trees that are still clinging on to their green leaves, it does not look like an autumn day with the gleaming gold between the trees, a new day reborn on a winter’s afternoon.

Dear Andréa à la proxima.

F.